Svaneti - Page 2

One of the oldest copies of the Bible is on exhibition at the Mestia Museum. It was written in 897 A.D., making it eleven hundred years old. The thick skin cover has cracks in many places. The importance of this Bible is that the date it was written is precisely known. Originally it belonged to the Shadberdi Monastery 15km (10mi) east of Ardanuch. It was then brought to the Hadishi village near Mestia where it stayed for seven hundred years. Finally its historic value was discovered in 1950 and it was given to the Mestia Museum.

The elderly are shown special respect in Svan culture. When an elderly person enters the room everyone rises to their feet. In the majority of households there is a carved wooden chair in the shape of a throne for the most senior male. This chair is considered to be the symbol of a man's authority in the house, and women never sit in it. Traditional clothing is worn on special days.

investigator, curious about changes in daily life in Georgia after the disintegration of the Soviet Union, first addresses the question to a villager of the plains.

The reply: "What disintegration? When did the Soviet Union break up?"

Surprised but undeterred, the investigator asks the same question to a villager in the mountains. This man is a Svan.

The reply: "What union? What does Soviet mean?"

This anecdote is by no means an exaggeration. Since ancient times the Svans have isolated themselves in their stone-built houses, each with a tower, and dealt with invaders pitilessly, avoiding subjugation to all feudal lords and monarchs.

To criticize a Svan at the
table invites disaster.

The origin of the Svans is disputed but their language has traces of Farsi, the jewelry has Syrian motifs, and the architecture has Italian characteristics leading to claims of Iranian, Mesopotamian, or Ancient Roman ancestors. The Svan language, in common with Laz and Georgian, belongs to the South Caucasian language group but its structure differs from present day Georgian. There is no written form and it is free of swear words.

For centuries pride and courage have been the national characteristics of the Svans, whose cultural development has been shaped by 2 factors: Geographical isolation and its resulting autonomy.

In our car, an ancient bone-shaking relic of the Red Army, we followed the wild Enguri River from Sugdidi to Mestia. With shattered nerves after a journey of many fearsome precipices we took refuge in the house of our guide, Nana Nijeradze.

Svans attach great importance
to these ceremonies signifying
friendship and closeness.

Supper was delicious and served with arak (vodka made from apples and pears). According to strict Svan drinking tradition each person gave a short speech in turn every time the glasses were raised. David, to my left, poured a little vodka on the ground "for the souls of the dead". The subject of the speeches was determined by the head of table and as a matter of courtesy each guest was to raise a glass and remain loyal to the subject. After 3 or 4 glasses the speeches started rambling. Perhaps because of being surrounded by enemies and vendettas the Svans attach great importance to these ceremonies signifying friendship and closeness. To criticize a Svan at the table invites disaster.

Graveyard ceremony in Ushguli above and below.

Because of the death of the only doctor of Ushguli 2 weeks previously, the Svans were carrying out simple functions like measuring blood pressure themselves.

In Georgia petrol and oil are sold at the side of the road by street sellers.

Connections with the outside world are maintained with the help of Noe Nijaradze's radio transmitter in the village of Ushguli.

Even in Mestia, as in all the former Soviet Republic, imported goods are sold by street sellers.

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